Title of Invention

COSMETIC COMPOSITIONS CONTAINING MULBERRY EXTRACT AND RETINOIDS

Abstract

A cosmetic skin care composition comprising : (i) a glycolic extract of mulberry root in an amount of from 0.00001 to 10 wt% (ii) a retinoid selected from retinyl acetate, retinyl palmitate and retinyl linoleate, and (iii) a cosmetically acceptable vehicle, wherein the weight ratio of retinyl acetate to the mulberry extract is in the range of from 1:80 to 120:1, the weight ratio of retinyl linoleate to the mulberry extract is in the range of from 1:8 to 120:1; and the weight ratio of retinyl palmitate to the mulberry extract is in the range of from 1:16 to 6:1.

Full Text

FORM2 THE PATENTS ACT, 1970 (39 of 1970) COMPLETE SPECIFICATION (See section 10; rule 13) Title of the invention COSMETIC COMPOSITIONS CONTAINING MULBERRY EXTRACT AND RETINOIDS HINDUSTAN LEVER LIMITED, a company incorporated under the Companies Act, 1913 of Hindustan Lever House, 165/166, Backbay Reclamation, Mumbai-400 020, State of Maharashtra, India The following specification (particularly) describes the nature of this invention (and the manner in which it is to t?e performed) COSMETIC COMPOSITIONS CONTAINING MULBERRY EXTRACT AND RETINOIDS This invention relates to cosmetic compositions containing mulberry extract in combination with retinoids and to methods of conditioning the skin by the application of such compositions. Retinol (vitamin A) is an endogenous compound which occurs naturally in the human body and is essential for normal epithelial cell differentiation. Natural and synthetic vitamin A derivatives have been used extensively in the treatment of a variety of skin disorders and as skin repair and renewal agents. Retinoic acid has been used to treat a variety of skin conditions such as acne, wrinkles, psoriasis, age spots and skin discoloration. Within the cells, retinol and retinoic acid are bound to specific cellular binding proteins, two of the major proteins are CRABP-1 and CRA3P-2 (Roos et s.1., Pharmacological reviews-. 50, 315-333, 1998). These proteins act in regulating the intracellular concentration of retinoids by acting as both storage or shuttle proteins in retinoid metabolism. The levels of this protein are regulated by the amount of retinoic acid within the cells. Higher cellular levels of retinoids increase the expression of CRABP-2. Therefore, the amount of this protein in the cells, is a measure of the retinoid activity of the cells. Skin cells contain CRA3P-2 both in the epidermis and the dermis. The CRABP-2 response to retinoid administration in -y- fibroblasts in vitro is used as a reproducible measure of retinoid bioactivity that predicts human skin responses (Eider et al,, J. Invest, Dermatol., 106: 517-521, 1996). Therefore, CRA3F-2 expression of fibroblasts is a measure of retinoid activity leading to various cosmetic skin benefits (antiaging, ar.ti wrinkling, skin conditioning etc.). Cosmetic compositions containing mulberry and retinoids are known in the art. See for instance E? 8I5S33 (Shiseido) , S? 38707C (Kibun Food Chemifa Co.), US 5,675,943, US 5,676,949, and US 5,507,692. US 5332575 describes a method of targeting melanocytes with a compound containing a fucose residue to bind the product to the melanocyte membrane. A cosmetic composition is exemplified containing dry mulberry root bark extract at 0.5% level, in another example, beta carotene or 0.25% vitamin A propionate is employed. The present invention is based on the discovery that mulberry extract in combination with selected retinoids exhibit synergy, when combined, within a specific ratio I range. The present invention includes a cosmetic skin care composition comprising: (i) a glycoiic extract of mulberry root in an amount of from 0.00001 to 10 wt % (ii) a retinoid selected from retinyi acetate, retinyi paimitate- and retinyi linoleate, and (iii) a cosmetically acceptable vehicle, wherein the weight ratio of retinyi acecate to the mulberry extract is in the range of from 1:30 to 120:1, the weight ratio of retinyl linoleace to the mulberry extract is in the range of from 1:5 to 120:1, and the weight ratio of retinyl palmitate to the mulberry extract is in the range of from 1:15 to 6:1. The present invention also includes a cosmetic method of improving or preventing the condition of wrinkled, lined, dry, flaky, aged or phctodamaged skin and improving skin thickness, elasticity, flexibility, radiance, glow and plumpness, which method includes applying to the skin the inventive composition. Compositions of the invention are intended for topical application to mammalian skin which is already dry, flaky, lined, wrinkled, aged, photodamaged, or the inventive compositions may be applied prophylactically to reduce the deteriorative changes. Except in the examples, or where otherwise explicitly indicated, all numbers in this description indicating amounts of material or conditions of reaction, physical properties of materials and/or use are to be understood as modified by the word "about." All amounts are by weight of the composition, unless otherwise specified. The mulberry extract suitable for use in the present. invention is a glycolic extract from the root of white mulberry. White mulberry is also known as Morus alba. The extract may be obtained from Bioland (South Korea). In general, the amount of the mulberry extract in the inventive compositions is in the range of from 0.001% to 20% by weight of the composition. Preferably, in order to lower cost and maximise the effect, the amount of the mulberry extract is in the range of from 0.01 to 10% and most preferably in the range of from 0.1% to 5%. The inventive compositions further comprise a retinoid selected from retinyl acetate, retinyl plamitate and retinyl iinoleate. It has been found that these retinoids act synergistically with the mulberry extract when the retinoid and the mulberry extract are combined in a specific weight ratio; the weight ratio of retinyl acetate to the mulberry extract is in the range of from 1:80 to 120:1, preferably from 1:S to 12:1, most preferably from 1:8 to 1.2:1; the weight ratio of retinyl linoieate to the mulberry extract is in the range of from 1:8 to 120:1, preferably from 1:8 to 12:1, most preferably from 1:8 to 1.2:1 and the weight ratio of retinyl palmitate to the mulberry extract is in the range of from 1:16 to 5:1, preferably from 1:8 to 8:1, most preferably from 1:8 to 1.2:1. The composition according to the invention also comprises a cosmetically acceptable vehicle to act as a diluant, dispersant or carrier for the mulberry extract and the retinoid in the composition, so as to facilitate their distribution when the composition is applied to the skin. Vehicles other than, or in addition to water, can include liquid or solid emollients, solvents, humectants, thickeners and powders. An especially preferred non-aqueous carrier is a polydimethyl siloxane and/or a polydimethyl phenyl siloxane. Silicones of this invention may be those with viscosities ranging anywhere from about 10 to 10, 000,000mm2 /s (centistokes) at 25oC. Especially desirable are mixtures of low and high viscosity silicones. These silicones are available from the General Electric Company under trademarks Vicasil, SE and SF and from the Dow Corning Company under the 200 and 550 Series. Amounts of silicone which can be utilised in the compositions of this invention range anywhere from 5% to 95%, preferably from 25% to 90% by weight of the composition. The cosmetically acceptable vehicle will usually comprise from 5% to 99.9%, preferably from 25% to 80% by weight of the composition, and may, in the absence of other cosmetic adjuncts, form the balance of the composition. Preferably, the vehicle is at least 80 wt.% water, by weight of the vehicle. Preferably, water comprises at least 50 wt.% of the inventive composition, most preferably from SO to 80 wt.%, by, weight of. the composition. The composition may comprise optional skin benefit materials and cosmetic adjuncts. An oil or oily material may be present, together with an emulsifier to provide either a water-in-oil emulsion or an oil-in-water emulsion, depending largely on the average hydrophilic-lipophilic balance (HLB) of the emulsifier employed. The inventive compositions preferably include sunscreens. Sunscreens include those materials commonly employed to block ultraviolet light. Illustrative compounds are Che derivatives of PA3A, cinnamate and salicylate. For example, cctyl methoxycinnamate and 2-hydroxy-4-methoxy benzophenone (also known as oxybenzone) can be used. Octyl methoxycirmamate and 2-hydroxy-4-methoxy benzophenone are commercially available under the trademarks, Parsoi MCX and Benzophenone-3, respectively. The exact amount of sunscreen employed in the emulsions can vary depending upon the degree of protection desired from the sun's UV radiation. Emollients are often incorporated into cosmetic compositions of the present invention. Levels of such emollients may range from 0.5% to 50%, preferably between 5% and 30% by weight of the total composition. Emollients may be classified under such general chemical categories as esters, fatty acids and alcohols, polyols and hydrocarbons. Esters may be mono- or di-esters. Acceptable examples of fatty di-esters include dibutyl adipate, diethyl sebacate, diiscpropyi dimerate, and dioctyl succinate. Acceptable branched chain fatty esters include 2-ethyl-hexyi myristate, isopropyl stearate and isostearyl palmitate. Acceptable tribasic acid esters include triisopropyl trilinoleate and trilauryl citrate. Acceptable straight chain fatty esters include lauryl palmitate, myristyl lactate, and stearyl oleate. Preferred esters include cocc-caprylate/caprace (a blend cf coco-caprylate and coco-caprate), propylene glycol myristyl ether acetate, diisopropyl adipate and cetyl octanoate. Suitable fatty alcohols and acids include those compounds having from 10 to 20 carbon atoms. Especially preferred are compounds such as cetyl, myristyl, palmitic and scearyl alcohols and acids. Among the polyols which may serve as emollients are linear and branched chain alkyl polyhydroxyl compounds. For example, propylene glycol, sorbitol and glycerin are preferred. Also useful may be polymeric polyols such as poly-prcpylene glycol and polyethylene glycol. Butylene and propylene glycol are also especially preferred as penetration enhancers. Exemplary hydrocarbons which may serve as emollients are those having hydrocarbon chains anywhere from 12 to 3 0 carbon atoms. Specific examples include mineral oil, petroleum jelly, squalene and isoparaffins. Another category cf functional ingredients which may be present within the cosmetic compositions of the present invention-are thickeners. A thickener will usually be present in amounts ranging from 0.1 to 20% by weight, preferably from about 0.5% to 1C% by weight of the composition. Exemplary thickeners are cross-linked polyacrylace materials available under the trademark Carbopci from the B.F. Goodrich Company. Gums may be employed such as xanthan, carrageenan, gelatin, karaya, pectin and locust beans gum. Under certain circumstances the thickening function may be accomplished by a material also serving as a silicone or emollient. For instance, silicone gums in excess of 10 centiscokes and esters such as glycerol stearate have dual functionality. Powders may be incorporated into the cosmetic composition of the invention. These powders include chalk, talc, kaolin, search, smectite clays, chemically modified magnesium aluminum silicate, organically modified montmoriilonite clay, hydrated aluminum silicate, fumed silica, aluminum starch octenyl succinate and mixtures thereof. Other adjunct minor components may also be incorporated into the cosmetic compositions. These ingredients may include colouring agents, cpacifiers and perfumes. Amounts of these other adjunct minor components may range from 0.001% up to 2 0% by weight of the composition. The composition according to the invention is intended primarily as a product for topical cosmetic application to human skin, especially as an agent for conditioning, moisturising and smoothening the skin, and preventing or reducing the appearance of lined, wrinkled or aged skin. In use, a small quantity of the composition, for example from 1 to 100ml, is applied to exposed areas of the skin, from a suitable container cr applicator and, if necessary, it is then spread over and/or rubbed into the skin using the hand cr fingers or a suitable device. The topical skin treatment composition of the invention can be formulated as a lotion, a cream or a gel. The composition can be packaged in a suitable container to suit its viscosity and intended use by the consumer. For example, a locicn or cream can be packaged in a bottle or a roll-bail applicator, or a propellant-driven aerosol device or a container fitted with a pump suitable for finger operation. When the composition is a cream, it can simply be stored in a non-deformable bottle or squeeze container, such as a tube or a lidded jar. The composition may also be included in capsules such as those described in U.S. Patent 5,063,507, incorporated by reference herein. The invention accordingly also provides a closed container containing a cosmetically acceptable composition as herein defined. The following specific examples further illustrate the invention, but the invention is not limited thereto. In all examples, resveratrol was obtained from Sigma. Retinoids were obtained from Sigma. The student "t-test" was used to calculate ail p-values. EXAMPLES The following methods were employed: (1) Cell culture method: Human adult fibroblascs obtained from the sun-protected inner arm of a 25-30 year female volunteer were used. Cells were grown in 1:1 DMSM/Hams F12 media containing 10% FBS, maintained at 37°C in a 5% C02 atmosphere under normal atmospheric oxygen tension. Third passage adult fibroblasts were grown in DMSM media with 10% F3S in 12-well plates at a seeding density of 40,000 cells/ml/well. The cells at 80% confluence were rinsed in serum free and phenol red free (PRF) DME.M media twice, pre-treated with phyto-active for 4 hours, dosed with retinoids and incubated for 43 hours. After incubation, the wells were washed twice with IX P3S and the ceil monolayer was harvested in 100µl cell lysis buffer (contains IX PBS, 1% TritonX, 0.5% sodium deoxycholate, 0.1% SDS containing protease inhibitor (10mg/ml PMSF in isopropanol, 10µ1/ml)). The suspension was spun at 14000rpm for 10 minutes, the supernatant collected and an aliquot of the supernatant used for protein quantification. The protein concentration was determined using a Pierce protein kit. The remainder of the 100µ1 of supernatant (cell lysate) was denatured in a mixture of 40µ1 sample buffer (NOVEX) and 0.5% Beta mercaptoethanol (3MS) by boiling the sample for 5 minutes. Equal amounts of protein were then loaded onto 16% Tris-glycine gels for protein analysis by SDS page and Western Immuno-blotting for CRA3P-2 protein expression. 3. Detection of Cellular Retinoic Acid. Blading- -Protein 2 (CRA3P-2) in fibroblasts-and Dig skin bioasies: To measure the levels of CRA3P-2 in the fibroblast and pig skin extracts prepared as described above, the cell supernatant was re-suspended in 4X sample buffer and 10% 3ME, boiled for 5 minutes and used for western blotting.-Equal amounts of protein were loaded onto 15% Tris-glycina gels for CRA3P-2 protein analysis by SDS page and Western Immuno-blotting. The gels were transferred to nitrocellulose blots and Western 3lotting was carried cut using monoclonal antibodies to CRAB?-2 according to standard procedures. The CRA3P-2 protein band was visualised in the Western Blots using the chemiluminescer.ce system obtained from Santa Cruz 3iotechnclogy (SancaCruz, CA) . The bancs in the film were quantified by densicometric scanning, the data from triplicate samples were calculated as a % of the control and expressed in the following tables as % increase over control (with control as 100%) +/-SD of triplicates. l. Calculations of retinoid: mulberry ratio The mulberry extract used in these studies contains 2% solids. Therefore, 1 (il of mulberry extract added to 1 ml medium in these studies correspond to 0.1% extract X 0.02% solids = 0.002% mulberry solids. 1 µM retinoid corresponds to approximately 500 ug/1 of retinyl ester; which is equivalent to 50 ug/100 ml or 0.00005% of retinyl esters. Therefore I µM retinoid: µL mulberry extract used in this in vizzo assay system has a ratio of 0.00005 to 0.002 or a ratio of 1:80. The different ratios of retinoids to mulberry used in the in vitro studies described in this patent application and potential concentrations of retinoids to mulberry to fit this ratio in formulations which can be used in skin care products are shown in Table 1 below. In summary, retinyl acecate showed synergy with mulberry extract at a ratio of from 1:80 co 120:1 in skin cells. Retinyl linoleate showed synergy from 1:3 to 120:1 and retinyl palmitate showed synergy from ratios 1:16 to 6:1. It should be understood that the specific forms of the invention herein illustrated and described are intended to be representative only. Changes, including but not limited to those suggested in this specification, may be made in the illustrated embodiments without departing from the clear teachings of the disclosure. Accordingly, reference should be made to the following appended claims in determining the full scoDe of the invention. WE CLAIM A cosmetic skin care composition comprising : (i) a glycolic extract of mulberry root in an amount of from 0.00001 to 10 wt% (ii) a retinoid selected from retinyl acetate, retinyl palmitate and retinyl linoleate, and (iii) a cosmetically acceptable vehicle, wherein the weight ratio of retinyl acetate to the mulberry extract is in the range of from 1:80 to 120:1, the weight ratio of retinyl linoleate to the mulberry extract is in the range of from 1:8 to 120:1; and the weight ratio of retinyl palmitate to the mulberry extract is in the range of from 1:16 to 6:1. Dated this 18th day of April 2002 S.MAJUMDAR OfS.MAJUMDAR&CO. Applicant's Agent

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