Title of Invention

A METHOD FOR GENERATING SHIRT PATTERNS

Abstract

The invention provides for automatic pattern generation, sketch and lay marking entirely through measuriinet as input and it display the sketches of finished shirts as a whole and also individual components. It. era .bles the report. generation with respect to specification sheet patters, lay anangement and lay efficiency report and each patteni is by itself a. master pattern. The specification sheet is useful to control an order at all stages from enquiry, samp ig approval and for co-ordination with produdiozr, stores, cutting and stitching department Pattern making and markers planning is totally computerized so it provides flexibility and high speed of response to change in pattern design.. The patters can be stored retrieved from library.

Full Text

This invention in general relates to Computer Aided Design/Computer Aided Manufacturing Systems (CAD/CAM) for the Garment Industry especial¬ly Pattern-making for Shirts. This invention relates to the field of application of Advanced Technology in garment industry. More specifically, this invention re¬lates to a process for high efficiency pattern making and lay marker system in garment industry. More specifically^ this invention relates to input mode in terras of numeric value for automatic generation of Pat¬terns by the Computer through inherent pattern-making skills in-built into the CAD/CAM system. BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION ; Manual methods normally begin at the point of receipt of a set of measurewents frow the buyer as part of an order. From the given measure¬ments relating to various components of a shirt, the pattern Master in the garment factory manually draws the patterns for a basic size say "S", on plain paper or paper board. Patterns for a shirt refer to its components such as Collar, Collar Band, Front, Back, Yoke, Sleeve, Cuff, Pocket etc. Then, using manual rules the Pattern Master develops Pat¬terns for other sizes such as M, L, XL etc. This process is called grad- . ing. The objective of grading is to develop patterns for various sizes based -on a base size that matches the measurements as well as corre¬sponds in shape and fit to the basic patterns. Block patterns of these components* once approved, are then issued to the cutting department. In the cutting department, a layer of the given fabric of given width for the particular order is placed on the cutting table. The block patterns are then placed on the top most layer and arranged in a manner that minimises fabric wastage. Best results are achieved through a process of trial and error. Then outlines of the patterns are marked on the fabric. This process is called lay marking. Once marked, the pattern are cut out of the layer of fabric and the cut fabric is issued for production with suitable stitching and packing instructions. It is an object of the invention to create a CAD/CAM System which executes the Pattern generation, Sketch formation and Lay marking, using numeric inputs only - especially shirt - making in Garment Indus¬try. It is another object of the invention to make the above processes fast, efficient and user - friendly. It is another object of the invention to avoid dependence on the artistic skill of the user in hand drawing the basic pattern of the shirt. It is another object of the invention to avoid dependence on the artistic skill of the user in hand drawing the basic designs of the shirt on paper and avoid dependence on the artistic skill of the user to reproduce the design on paper from viewing the specimen shirt. The"se and other objects of the invention will be apparent from the ensuing description. SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION : Currently in the market there is great demand for user-friendly, high-performance systems to enhance the productivity in garment indus¬try. The best solution available today in the market is that firstly the specimen is measured and pattern master draws the patterns manually for the basic si^e on paper board. Secondly, the use of digitizer, readily available in market is made use to capture the image on the screen. In the third step, grading rules are applied to create patterns for other sizes from the basic pattern drawn by the pattern - master. One of the objects is to overcome this drawing the pattern manually and then grad¬ing later according to the various requirements. This 3 ~ step process is overcome by simply taking measurements from the sample and giving numeric values on the planning table viewed in the screen of the system. The pattern master need not make drawings at all, the input is menu-driven and simple. Also the speed of pattern generation in the system is" high and involves time consumption in seconds only. So the system is accurate, consistent user-friendly, efficient, artistic, skillful and fast for pattern generation. The measurement input or the data entry for various sizes is done simultaneously on the screen and not in 3 - steps. So it is faster and easier. Also for the set of given measurements each individual pattern generated is by itself a master pattern. The screen display is to scale. All the master patterns can viewed together or individually. Also, each master-pattern can be manipulated individually for eg. placement of notches, trim facility,cut facility, adding seam allow¬ances, 2oom facility to zoom the pattern to actual size any specific part of the pattern. The system can also be used for generating patterns - for which no planning table exists as it offers highly inter-active tools for creat¬ing patterns on the system. These patterns can be created for any style and can also be edited. For example, basic patterns for a particular size of a part can be created and then using simple grade rules, pat¬terns for other sizes (H, L, XXL ) can also be created. The other main requirement in this field is a report which helps in production planning and control efficiently at the factory. It con¬tains; a. Order details, material specifications, label instructions, special instructions from the buyer. b. Measurement chart - which is made in the planning table by data entry. c. Sketches - (not to scale) of the pattern, for easy visual under¬ standing. d. Stitching details - like needle size, stitch size, seamsi hems etc. The next step is the Lay-Marking solution - in which the fabric is marked for cutting in the most efficient manner possible with a view to avoid/minimise wastage.The system enables thereby saving costs and time. The automatic lay marker decides the layout and calculates the lay effi¬ciency. Display of lay-status,and lay efficiency,and lay consumption details can be obtained. Also, interactive tools are provided for cus¬tomisation and further enhancement of lay efficiency by the user, to obtain better results is possible. CONFIGURATION OF THE SYSTEM The system is specially configured to work as a totally dedicated CAP/CAM system.The system does not allow recommendation access to any other application/use. The minimum hardware configuration comprises of!- 1. IBM or IBM compatible with PENTIUM PROCESSOR with 16MB RAM. 2. 17" SVGA Colour Monitor. 3. 36 Inch. Plotter (Pen/Inkjet) 4. Specially Configured Add-on device, ADVANTA6ES OF THIS SYSTEM !- 1. This systems uniqueness and novelty lies in the fact that the system provides for automatic pattern generation, sketch and lay marking entirely through measurements as input. 2. Instantaneous display on the screen the sketch of finished shirt as a whole and also individual components. 3. Automatic lay marker is a fabric saver and due to this, fabric wastage is minimised. So the system is commercially good. There is significant cost savings on material and also labour. 4. System enables reports generation with respect to Specification sheet patterns, Lay arrangement and Lay efficiency report. 5. In this system each pattern is by itself a master pattern. 6. Digitiser, which is used to convert master pattern via the digitis¬ing process to a format of numbers which the computer can recognise and process, is totally eliminated in this system. 7. Master patterns need not be created manually by pattern master at any stage. Hence significant reduction in lead time in planning, produc¬tion and control. 8. It is most user - friendly system. 9. Pattern making and Marker planning is totally computerised. Hence H provides flexibility and high speed of response to changes in pattern design. 10. No mathematical or computing ability on the part of the user is needed. 11. It is very easy to operate the system. It is highly accurate and consistent. 12. Inputs can be variable as per buyers" specification or users" specification. 13. Master patterns can be viewed together, but manipulated individual¬ly for modifications. 14. Block patterns can be stored/retrieved from the library. MAIN FEATURES OF THE INVENTION ;- The system is a CAD/CAM System to provide solution to manufacturers of shirts in the following areas : 1. Automatic Pattern Generation, ii. Automatic Sketch Forming, iii. Automatic Lay Marking. The system comprises of the following modules :- Planning Table ;, This is the basic input menu where all measurements relevant for various shirt patterns (such as collar, sleeve, front, back, pocket, placket etc.) are entered either as per buyers" specification or users" specification. Measurements can be entered in the Planning Table for 5 sizes such as Small (Si, Medium (M), Large (L), Extra Large (XL) and Double Extra Large (XXL) - simultaneously. The set of measurements is input in terms of numeric value. The menu itself offers the set of data that can be inputted in the system. During the input sage, certain input data is mandatory and other data are useful to fine tune the design. The menu is sequential part by part i.e. collar, front, black, sleeve, pocket etc. In each menu, further input can be inputted depending on the desirability of the actual de¬sign. Sketch i- For the given measurements, the sketch of the finished shirt as well as individual components are instantly displayed on screen. The sketches are not to scale. The module also provides for a high level of flexibility to the user by letting him create sketches of new styles using tools provided for this purpose and to edit the sketch created. Pattern generation;- For the given measurements, individual master patterns for various sizes such as S, M, L, XL. and XXL are generated and displayed on screen within seconds. The screen display size is 1/lOth of actual size of the particular grade. i. This module generates the required patterns for the selected code. Options are available to generate pattern for any one size only or for all of them or a combination of one or more of the sizes for which measurements have been entered in the planning Table. li. This module also captures any input error and displays them wherev¬ er measurements are not compatible or if any data entry errors have been made while entering measurements in the Planning Table in the first place. iii. Patterns once generated are ready for display and manipulation in the Edit screen. Only those patterns and of those sizes that are select¬ed and generated in the Generation Module are displayed. Each pattern can be viewed for a particular size or for all sizes together. Similarly they can be manipulated individually or together using tools such as :- Placements of Notches to indicate the position where fabric needs to be folded, A Trim facility to trim patterns to allow for finer shapes. A Cut facility to cut patterns into two or more pieces as may be required. Specifying/changing allowances for folding/stitching. A zooming facility to zoom the pattern to actual size and view any part of the pattern closely. The patterns generated in respect of measurements for a particular order can be stored and retrieved at any time, they can be printed on a plotter to obtain actual sizes on paper / cardboard. These block pat¬terns as they are called can then be placed on the fabric and their outlines marked on the fabric. Individual patterns can then be cut out of the fabric and issued for production. Automatic Lay, Marker ;- This module displays automatically on screen how the patterns generated are to be placed on the fabric such that fabric wastage can be minimised. The system generates automatically numerous placements and selects the most efficient placement for display. The following manipu¬lations are possible ; • Fabric width can be altered on screen Measurement unit selected can be Cms, Inches, Metres or Yards as the user may desire. Automatic lay marking solution can be interactively enhanced by the user using tools provided. These tools relate to insertion, deletion, rotation or fusing of patterns. * A zoom facility to view any part of the lay in actual size. " A lay status table that show at any given stage the patterns actu¬ally placed viz-a-vis total patterns to be placed against each size. Provision to define horizontal (Warp) or vertical (Weft) repeats or both as appearing on the actual fabric. Providing tolerances for cutting, i.e. distance to be maintained between patterns in the lay so as to allow for easy cutting. REPORTS GENERATED ;- The system generates the following reports :-1. Specification Sheet This contains important measurements across all sizes along with sketches of finished garment and individual components (See Format enclosed) — FIG 1. The user can select the key measurement and sketches which should appear in the specification sheet. The specification sheet is useful to control an order at all stages from enquiry, sampling, approval and for co-ordination with production, stores, cutting and stitching departments. 11. Patterns Individual patterns can be printed on the plotter indicating seam allowances notches, pocket placement, button placement, center line, etc. iii. Lay The lay arrangement showing how the patterns can best be arranged on the fabric can be printed on a plotter either for actual size or in miniature on a Dot Matrix Printer. This output can be used by the cutting department as a guide for cutting layers of fabric, (see sample Lay Arrangement enclosed) — FIG 2. iv. Lay Efficiency report This report gives details of fabric length used, total area con¬sumed by the patterns and the efficiency of placement, (see enclosed Lay Efficiency Report) — FIG 3. HE CLAIM:- 1. A method for garment pattern generation, garment sketch. formation, garment components sketch formation, lay marking of gantients along with editing of generated patterns, sketches and lay marks with a computer means including- input means, storing means, display means, computing means, and output means, a planning table software tool loaded into the said computer means for receiving input to computer means, a specification sheet database generated in the computer means by the said planning table software tool, comprising of following steps: - . displaying the menu for inputting data for the planning table, generated sketches of garment components, generated sketches of garment patterns, and generated sketches of markings on fabrics in a display means, - feeding planning table input data by human intervention for designing of plurality of garment components or garment pattern, ttirough an input means, -.generating template sketch of gar« -.generating template sketch of garment pattern corresponding to plurality of selected garment components, in the computing means, - . generating template sketch of garment components for plurality of sizes, in the compuiting means, - generating template sketch of garment patterns tor plurality of sizes, in the computing means. - converting the input data into a specification, sheet form which may be stored in the storing- means, manipuiated and outputted by said computer meane, wherein input means comprises at least keyboard and/or mouse alonqwith the monitor of th© computer for visual display of the menu. wherein output meane comprises printer and monitor of the computer, wherein the a taring meana comprises memory of the computer, wherein the display meane comprises the monitor of the computer, and wherein computing meane is characterized with plurality of processors and softwares loaded in the computer. 2. A method for garment pattern generation as clamed in claim 1, wherein the said storing means including a data file having the data relating to plurality of garment components, plurality of garment patterns, plmrality of qi.iantity and plurality of size, said database linKing said plurality of garment components, garment patterns, quantity and size mutually, 3. A method for garment pattern generation as clamed in claim 1, wherein the said computing meana computing to define the cutting of fabxic through the said input meana rece i.v ing planning table input data by human intervention to select Che fabric size corresponding to garment pattern,- garment component e, quantity and eize hy selectively and compositely superimposing the selected data on the fabric to generate a sketch for proposed cutting of the fabric, 4. A method for garment pattern generation as clamed in claim 1, wherein the eaid output means generates output of aketchea of garment components, sketches of garment patterns, sketches of markings and fielde from the specif ication sheet database,

Documents:

560-mas-98 claims-duplicate.pdf

560-mas-98 abstract-duplicate.pdf

560-mas-98 abstract.pdf

560-mas-98 claims.pdf

560-mas-98 correspondence-others.pdf

560-mas-98 correspondence-po.pdf

560-mas-98 description(complete)-duplicate.pdf

560-mas-98 description(complete).pdf

560-mas-98 drawings-duplicate.pdf

560-mas-98 drawings.pdf

560-mas-98 form-1.pdf

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560-mas-98 form-26.pdf

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560-mas-98 others document.pdf

560-mas-98 others.pdf