Title of Invention

COSMETIC OR DERMATOLOGICAL COMPOSITION OF OIL-IN-WATER TYPE

Abstract COSMETIC OIL-IN-WATER EMULSION The present invention relates to the field of cosmetic or dermatological compositions of oil-in-water emulsion type, comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least gemini surfactant of formula (I): in which R1 and R3 denote, independently of one another, an alkyl radical containing from 1 to 25 carbon atoms; R2 denotes a spacer consisting of a linear or branched alkylene chain containing from 1 to 12 carbon atoms, X and Y denote, independently of one another, a group -(C2H4O)a-(C3H6O)bZ; n ranges from 1 to 10, in combination with an effective amount of at least one semi-crystalline polymer which is solid at ambient temperature and which has a melting point below 70°C, said polymer having a number-average molecular mass greater than or equal to 2000, said emulsion having a proportion of fatty phase of greater than 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition and comprising more than 40% by weight of non-volatile oil(s) relative to the weight of the fatty phase.
Full Text

The present invention relates to the field of cosmetic compositions of emulsion
type and more particularly to the field of compositions comprising a textured liquid fatty
phase.
Cosmetic compositions comprising a liquid fatty phase-are commonly used
nowadays, in particular for cleansing, caring for, making up and/or treating the skin, the
hair and the scalp. The daily use of these compositions means that those using them are
always more demanding and more sensitive to the texture more generally to the
organoleptic properties of these compositions.
Thus, it has been noted that cosmetic compositions which comprise more than
10% by weight of fatty phase containing more than 40% by weight of non-volatile oil, are
found to be advantageous for making up for the lack of cutaneous lipids in dehydrated
skin, but on the other hand can pose problems in terms of sensory properties, insofar as
they are capable of generating a greasy effect, sometimes accompanied by a tacky effect
and/or a shiny appearance, which users do not find attractive.
In addition to this undesirable effect from a sensory perception point of view,
these emulsion-type compositions can show a lack of stability when they are combined
with certain materials. Thus, it has been noted that the presence of large amounts of UV
screens, in particular organic UV screens, in emulsions of this type can affect the stability
thereof over time, or even initiate demixing thereof. The composition then becomes
inhomogeneous and is no longer usable.
There remains therefore, at this time, a need for emulsion-type cosmetic
compositions with a significant fatty phase content, which are reproducible on demand in
terms of viscosity, which are devoid of any fatty, tacky and shiny nature, and which have
improved stability, in particular when they contain materials of organic UV screen type.
The principal object of the present invention is precisely to meet these needs.
In this regard, the inventors have, unexpectedly, noted that it is possible to
obtain such emulsions, with the proviso of using therein, by way of emulsifier, a particular
gemini surfactant in combination with at least one specific semi-crystalline polymer.
Document EP1 502 582 describes compositions comprising at least one gemini
surfactant and at least one associative polymer, said compositions being fluid and
emulsified and containing a photoprotective system capable of screening UV rays.

Documents WO 2007/054824, WO 03/024412 and WO 2004/105704
describes moreover, oil-in-water compositions for topical application, comprising at least
one gemini surfactant.
Furthermore, documents FR 2 863 889 and EP 1 331 000 describe
compositions which use semi-crystalline polymers.
However, none of there documents either describes or suggests the use of the
combination of the invention in the galenical architecture more particularly targeted,
namely comprising more than 10% by weight of fatty phase containing more than 40% by
weight of non-volatile oil.
More specifically, a subject of the invention is a cosmetic or dermatological
composition of oil-in-water type comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, at
least one gemini surfactant of formula (I):

in which:
- R1 and R3 denote, independently of one another, an alkyl radical containing
from 1 to 25 carbon atoms;
- R2 denotes a spacer consisting of a linear or branched alkylene chain
containing from 1 to 12 carbon atoms;
- X and Y denote, independently of one another, a -(C2H4O)a-(C3H6O)bZ
group where

• Z denotes a hydrogen atom or a radical -CH2-COOM, -SO3M, -P(O)(OM)2,
-C2H4-SO3M, -C3H6-SO3M or -CH2(CHOH)4CH2OH, where M, M' represent H or an
alkali metal ion, an alkaline earth metal ion, an ammonium ion or alkanolammonium
ion,
• a ranges from 0 to 15,
• b ranges from 0 to 10, and
• the sum of a + b ranges from 1 to 25; and
- n ranges from 1 to 10,

in combination with an effective amount of at least one semi-crystalline polymer which is
solid at ambient temperature and which has a melting point of below 70°C, comprising a)
a polymeric backbone and b) at least one crystallizable organic side chain and/or one
crystallizable organic block which is part of the backbone of said polymer, said polymer
having a number-average molecular mass greater than or equal to 2000,
said emulsion having a proportion of fatty phase greater than 10% by weight relative to the
total weight of said composition and comprising more than 40% by weight of non-volatile
oil(s) relative to the total weight of said fatty phase.
The combination according to the invention makes it possible to obtain
emulsions which are very homogeneous, which have increased stability and which are
therefore compatible with the formulation of materials known to naturally have a
destabilizing effect with respect to the known conventional emulsions, and in particular
organic UV screens.
In addition, the emulsions stabilized by the combination in accordance with
the invention have a texture which is very pleasant to the touch. They are soft and give a
feeling of lightness when they are applied to the skin."
The term "physiologically acceptable medium" is understood to mean a
medium compatible with human keratin materials, such as the skin, the mucus membranes,
the nails, the scalp and/or the hair.
Thus, the physiologically acceptable medium is in particular a cosmetically or
dermatologically acceptable medium, i.e. with no unpleasant odour, colour or appearance,
and which does not generate any tingling, tautness or redness unacceptable,to the user.
The composition used according to the invention may be intended for cosmetic
or pharmaceutical use, particularly dermatological use. Preferably, the composition
according to the invention is intended for cosmetic use. It may be used for caring for or
making up keratin materials.
A composition according to the invention is in particular suitable for topical
application to a keratin material, and in particular the skin.
Thus, it may be used as a skincare product, for example as a protection,
treatment or care cream for the face, for the hands or for the body, such as a body milk for
protecting or caring for the skin, the scalp or the mucus membranes, or as a hygiene
product, for example as a makeup-removing product for the skin or the mucus membranes,
or else as a hair product, or more particularly as a suntan product.

The compositions according to the invention may also constitute products for
making up the skin and/or the hair, for example by incorporating therein pigments in order
to constitute in particular foundations.
Thus, a subject of the invention is also the cosmetic use of the composition as
defined above, as a skincarc product, as a hygiene product, as a hair product, as a suntan
product or as a makeup product.
The invention futures relates to a cosmetic method for making up and/or for
the non therapeutic care of keratin materials, such as skin, scalp, hair, eyelashes,
eyebrows, nails and mucous membranes, wherein it comprises at least a step of applying
to keratin materials a composition according to the present invention,
Another subject of the invention is a process for the treatment, in particular
cosmetic treatment, of a keratin material, such as the skin, scalp, hair, eyelashes,
eyebrows, nails or mucus membranes, characterized in that a composition as defined
above is applied to the keratin material.
Other subjects, characteristics, aspects and advantages of the present invention
will emerge more clearly on reading the description and the examples which follow.
Gemini surfactant
The gemini surfactant of formula (I) is preferably such that each of the groups
R1-CO- and R3-CO- contains from 8 to 20 carbon atoms, and preferably denotes a coconut
fatty acid residue (predominantly comprising lauric acid and myristic acid).
In addition, this surfactant is preferably such that, for each of the radicals X
and Y, the sum of a and b has a mean value ranging from 10 to 20 and is preferably equal
to 15. A preferred group for Z is the group -SO3M where M is preferably an alkali metal
ion such as a sodium ion.
The spacer R2 advantageously consists of a linear C1-C3 alkylene chain, and
preferably an ethylene chain (CH2CH2).
Finally, n is advantageously equal to 1.
A surfactant of this type is in particular the surfactant identified by the INCI
name: Sodium dicocoylethylcnediamine PEG-15 sulfate, having the following structure:


it being understood that PEG represents the group CH2CH2O, and cocoyl represents the
coconut fatty acid residue.
This surfactant has a molecular structure very similar to that of ceramide-3.
Preferably, the gemini surfactant according to the invention is used as a
mixture with other surfactants, and in particular as a mixture with (a) a glyceryl ester of a
C6-C22 fatty acid (preferably of C14-C20 such as a stearate), (b) a glycerol diester of a
C6-C22 fatty acid (preferably of C14-C20 such as a stearate) and of citric acid (such as a
glycerol diester of a C6-C22 fatty acid and of monocitric acid), and (c) a C10-C30 fatty
alcohol (preferably behenyl alcohol).
Advantageously, the composition according to the invention comprises a
mixture of sodium dicocoylefhylenediamine PEG-15 sulfate, of glyceryl stearate, of
glyceryl stearate monocitrate, of behenyl alcohol.
More preferentially, the gemini surfactant according to the invention
represents from 10% to 20% by weight, and advantageously 15% by weight; the glyceryl
ester of a C6-C22 fatty acid represents from 30% to 40% by weight, advantageously 35%
by weight; the glycerol diester of a C6-C22 fatty acid and of citric acid represents from
10% to 20% by weight, advantageously 15% by weight; and the C10-C30 fatty alcohol
represents from 30% to 40% by weight, advantageously 35% by weight, relative to the
total weight of the mixture of surfactants containing the gemini surfactant.
Advantageously, the composition according to the invention comprises a
mixture of 10 to 20% by weight of sodium dicocoylethylenediamine PEG-15 sulfate, of 30
to 40% (in particular 35%) by weight of glyceryl stearate, of 10 to 20% (in particular 15%)
by weight of glyceryl stearate monocitrate, of 30 to 40% (in particular 35%) by weight of
behenyl alcohol, relative to the total weight of surfactants containing the gemini
surfactant.

As a variant, the gemini surfactant according to the invention may be used as a
mixture with an anionic surfactant such as a lauric acid ester, sodium lauryl lactate. In this
case, the gemini surfactant preferably represents from 30% to 50% by weight, and the
anionic surfactant represents from 50% to 70% by weight, relative to the total weight of
the mixture.
The gemini surfactant may be used, for example, as a mixture with other
surfactants in the form of products sold by the company Sasol under the name Ceralution®,
and in particular the following products:
• Ceralution® H: Behenyl Alcohol, Glyceryl Stearate, Glyceryl Stearate Citrate and
Sodium Dicocoylethylenediamine PEG-15 Sulfate,
• Ceralution® F: Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate and Sodium Dicocoylethylenediamine PEG-15
Sulphate,
• Ceralution® C: Aqua, Capric/Caprylic triglyceride, Glycerin, Ceteareth-25, Sodium
Dicocoylethylenediamine PEG-15 Sulfate, Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate, Behenyl Alcohol,
Glyceryl Stearate, Glyceryl Stearate Citrate, Gum Arabic, Xanthan Gum, Phenoxyethanol,
Methyl paraben, Ethyl paraben, Butyl paraben, Isobutyl paraben (INCI names).
This gemini surfactant represents from 3% to 50% of the weight of these
mixtures.
The gemini surfactant of formula (I) may be present in a composition .
according to the invention at a content ranging from 0.01% to 5% by weight, relative to
the total weight of the composition, preferably ranging from 0.1% to 3% by weight, and
better still ranging from 0.2% to 1.5% by weight.
. Semi-crystalline polymer
The semi-crystalline polymer used in the composition of the invention is
generally introduced into the liquid fatty phase of the emulsion.
For the purpose of the invention, the term "semi-crystalline polymer" is
intended to mean polymers comprising a crystallizable portion, pendant chain or block in
the backbone, and an amorphous portion in the backbone, and having a first-order
reversible phase change temperature, in particular melting temperature (solid-liquid
transition). For the purpose of the invention, the term "polymers" is intended to mean
compounds comprising at least 2 repeating units, preferably at least 3 repeating units, and
more especially at least 10 repeating units. When the crystallizable portion is a block of

the polymer backbone, the chemical nature of this crystallizable block is different from
that of the amorphous blocks,; the semi-crystalline polymer is, in this case, a block
polymer, for example of the diblock, triblock or multiblock type.
Advantageously, the semi-crystalline polymer(s) of the composition of the
invention has (have) a number-average molecular mass Mn of greater than or equal to
2000, ranging, for example, from 2000 to 800 000, preferably from 3000 to 500 000, for-
example from 4000 to 150 000, and better still from 4000 to 99 000.
In the composition according to the invention, the semi-crystalline polymers
are advantageously soluble in the fatty phase to at least 1% by weight, at a temperature
above their melting point. Outside the crystallizabled chains or blocks, the blocks of the
polymers are amorphous. For the purpose of the invention, the term "crystallizable chain
or block" is intended to mean a chain or block which, if it was alone, would pass from the
amorphous state to the crystalline state, reversibly, depending on whether the temperature .
is above or below the melting point. For the purpose of the invention, a chain is a group of
atoms that is pendant or lateral relative to the backbone of the polymer. A block is a group
of atoms belonging to the backbone, this group constituting one of the repeating units of
the polymer.
Preferably, the polymer backbone of the semi-crystalline polymers is soluble
in the liquid fatty phase.
Preferably, the semi-crystalline polymers used in the composition of the .
invention have a melting point (or melting temperature) Tm of less than 70°C, preferably
less than 50°C, this temperature being at least equal to the temperature of the keratin
support that is to receive the composition according to the invention. The semi-crystalline
polymer has a melting point Tm such that 25°C ≤ Tm 30°C ≤ Tm and in particular using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC).

Preferably, the crystallizable blocks or chains of the semi-crystalline polymers
represent at least 30% of the total weight of each polymer, and better still at least 40%.
The semi-crystalline polymers of the invention comprising crystallizable blocks are block
or multiblock polymers. They can be obtained by polymerization of monomers containing
reactive doubles bonds (ethylenic bonds) or by a polycondensation. When the polymers of
the invention are polymers comprising crystallizable side chains, said polymers are
advantageously in random form.
Preferably, the semi-crystalline nolvmers of the invention are of synthetic
origin. In addition, they do not comprise a polysaccharide backbone.
The semi-crystalline polymers that can be used in the invention are in
particular:
1) block copolymers of polyolefins of controlled crystallization, the monomers
of which are described in document EP-A-951897;
2) polycondensates and especially aliphatic or aromatic polyester
polycondensates, and aliphatic/aromatic copolyesters;
3) homopolymers or copolymers bearing at least one crystallizable side chain,
and homopolymers or copolymers bearing in the backbone at least one crystallizable
block, for instance those described in document US-A-5, 156, 911;
4) homopolymers or copolymers bearing at least one crystallizable side chain
comprising one (or more) fluoro group(s), as described in document WO-A-01/19333;
5) and mixtures thereof.
In the last two cases (3 and 4), the crystallizable block(s) or side chain(s) is
(are) hydrophobic.
Crystalline polymers comprising crystallizable side chains or bearing in the
backbone at least one crystallizable block are described below.
A) Semi-crystalline polymers comprising crystallizable side chains
Mention may in particular be made of those defined in documents US-A-
5,156,911 and WO-A-01/19333. They are homopolymers or copolymers comprising from
50% to 100% by weight of units resulting from the polymerization of one or more
monomers bearing crystallizable hydrophobic side chain(s).

These homopolymers or copolymers are of any nature provided that they meet
the conditions indicated hereinafter with, in particular, the characteristic of being soluble
or dispersible in the liquid fatty phase by heating above their melting point Tm. They may
result:
- from the polymerization, especially free-radical polymerization, of one or
more monomers comprising reactive ethylenic double bond(s) with respect to a
polymerization, i.e. comprising a vinyl, (meth)acrylic or allylic group;
- from the polycondensation of one or more monomers bearing coreactive
groups (carboxylic acid, sulphonic acid, alcohol, amine or isocyanate), such as, for
example, polyesters, polyurethanes, polyethers, polyureas or polyamides.
a) In general, the crystallizable units (chains or blocks) of the semi-crystalline
polymers according to the invention are obtained from monomer(s) comprising
crystallizable block(s) or chain(s), used for the production of the semi-crystalline
polymers. These polymers are chosen in particular from homopolymers and copolymers
resulting from the polymerization of at least one monomer comprising a crystallizable
chain or chains which may be represented by the formula X:

where M represents an atom of the polymer-skeleton, S represents a. spacer and C
represents a crystallizable group.
The crystallizable chains "-S-C" may be aliphatic or aromatic, and optionally
fluorinated or perfluorinated. "S" in particular represents a linear or branched or cyclic
group (CH2)n or (CH2CH2O)n or (CH2O), n being an integer ranging from 0 to 22.
Preferably, "S" is a linear group. Preferably, "S" and "C" are different.
When the crystallizable chains are aliphatic (alkyl) chains, they comprise at
least 11 carbon atoms and not more than 40 carbon atoms and better still not more than 24
carbon atoms. They are in particular alkyl chains containing at least 12 carbon atoms, and
are preferably alkyl chains containing from 14 to 24 carbon atoms (C14-C24). They may be

hydrocarbon-based alkyl chains (carbon and hydrogen atoms) or fluoroalkyl or perfluoro-
alkyl chains (carbon atoms, fluorine atoms and, optionally, hydrogen atoms). When they
are fluoroalkyl or perfluoroalkyl chains, they comprise at least 11 carbon atoms, at least 6
carbon atoms of which are fluorinated.
As examples of semi-crystalline polymers or copolymers comprising
crystallizable chain(s), mention may be made of those resulting from the polymerization of
at least one monomer comprising a crystallizable chain chosen from saturated C14-C24
alkyl (meth)acrylates (C14-C24 means that the alkyl group contains from 14 to 24 carbon
atoms); C11-C15 perfluoroalkyl (meth)acrylates (alkyl group with 11 to 15 carbon atoms);
C14 to C24 N-alkyl(meth)acrylamides with or without a fluorine atom (alkyl group with 14
to 24 carbon atoms); vinyl esters comprising C14 to C24 alkyl or perfluoroalkyl chains
(alkyl group with 14 to 24 carbon atoms), with a perfluoroalkyl chain containing at least 6
fluorine atoms; vinyl ethers comprising C14 to C24 alkyl or perfluoroalkyl chains (alkyl
group with 14 to 24 carbon atoms), with a perfluoroalkyl chain containing at least 6
fluorine atoms; C14 to C24 alpha-olefins (alkyl group with 14 to 24 carbon atoms), such as,
for example, octadecene; C14 to C24 para-alkylstyrenes (alkyl group with 14 to 24 carbon
atoms), and mixtures thereof.
For the purpose of the invention, the term "alkyl" is intended to mean a
saturated group in particular containing from 8 to 24 carbon atoms (C8 to C24), unless
otherwise mentioned.
When the polymers result from a polycondensation, the hydrocarbon-based
and/or fluorinated crystallizable chains as defined above are borne by a monomer which
may be a diacid, a diol, a diamine or a diisocyanate.
When the polymers used in the composition of the invention are copolymers,
they also contain from 0 to 50% of groups Y or Z resulting from the copolymerization:
a) with Y which is a polar or nonpolar monomer or a mixture of the two:
- when Y is a polar monomer, it is either a monomer bearing
polyoxyalkylenated (in particular oxyethylenated and/or oxypropylenated) groups, a
hydroxyalkyl (meth)acrylate such as hydroxyethyl acrylate, (meth)acrylamide, an
N-alkyl(meth)acrylamide, an N,N-dialkyl(meth)acrylamide such as, for example,
N,N-diisopropylacrylamide or N-vinylpyrrolidone (NVP), N-vinylcaprolactam, or a
monomer bearing at least one carboxylic acid group, for instance (meth)acrylic acid,

crotonic acid, itaconic acid, maleic acid or fumaric acid or bearing a carboxylic acid
anhydride group, for instance maleic anhydride, and mixtures thereof.
- When Y is a nonpolar monomer, it may be an ester of the linear, branched or
cyclic alkyl (meth)acrylate type, a vinyl ester, an alkyl vinyl ether, an alpha-olefin, styrene
or styrene substituted with an alkyl group containing from 1 to 10 carbon atoms (C1 to
C10), for instance a-methylstyrene, or a macromonomer of the polyorganosiloxane type
containing vinylic unsaturation;
P) with Z which is a polar monomer or a mixture of polar monomers, Z having
the same definition as the "polar Y" defined above.
Preferably, the semi-crystalline polymers comprising a crystallizable side
chain are chosen from alkyl (meth)acrylate or alkyl(meth)acrylamide homopolymers with
an alkyl group as defined above, and in particular of C14-C24; the copolymers of these
monomers with a hydrophilic monomer preferably different in nature from (meth)acrylic
acid; and mixtures thereof. They may be, for example, as copolymers, copolymers of alkyl
(meth)acrylate or of alkyl(meth)acrylamide with a C14 to C24 alkyl group, with
N-vinylpyrrolidone, hydroxy ethyl (meth)acrylate; or mixtures thereof.
B) Polymers bearing in the backbone at least one crystallizable block
These are again polymers that are soluble or dispersible in the liquid fatty
phase by heating above their melting point Tm. These polymers are in particular block
copolymers consisting of at least 2 blocks of different chemical nature, one of which is
crystallizable.
The following may be used:
1) the polymers defined in document US-A-5, 156, 911;
2) block copolymers of olefin or of cycloolefin comprising a crystallizable
chain, such as those derived from block polymerization of:
- cyclobutene, cyclohexene, cyclooctene, norbornene (i.e. bicyclo(2,2,l)hept-
2-ene), 5-methylnorbornene, 5-ethylnorbornene, 5,6-dimethylnorbornene, 5,5,6-trimethyl-
norbornene, 5-ethylidenenorbornene, 5-phenylnorbornene, 5-benzylnorbornene, 5-vinyl-
norbomene, l,4,5,8-dimethano-l,2,3,4,4a,5,8a-octahydronaphthalene, dicyclopentadiene,
or mixtures thereof;
- with ethylene, propylene, 1-butene, 3-methyl-1-butene, 1-hexene, 4-methyl-
1-pentene, 1-octene, 1-decene or 1-eicosene, or mixtures thereof.

These block copolymers may in particular be (ethylene/norbornene) block
copolymers and (ethylene/propylene/ethylidenenorbornene) block terpolymers.
Those resulting from the block copolymerization of at least 2 C2-C16 and better
still C2-C12 a-olefins, such as those mentioned above and in particular block bipolymers of
ethylene and of 1 -octene, may also be used.
3) Copolymers containing at least one crystallizable block, the rest of the
copolymer being amorphous (at room temperature). These copolymers may also have two
crystallizable blocks of different chemical nature. The preferred copolymers are those
simultaneously containing at room temperature a crystallizable block and an amorphous
block that is both hydrophobic and lipophilic sequentially distributed; mention may, for
example, be made of polymers containing one of the crystallizable blocks below and one
of the amorphous blocks below:
. Naturally crystallizable block: a) polyester, for instance poly(alkylene
terephthalate), b) polyolefin, for instance polyethylenes or polypropylenes.
. Amorphous or lipophilic block, for instance amorphous polyolefms or
amorphous copoly(olefins) such as poly(isobutylene), hydrogenated polybutadiene or
hydrogenated poly(isoprene).
As examples of such copolymers comprising a crystallizable block and an
amorphous block, mention may be made of:
α) poly(ε-caprolactone)-b-poly(butadiene) block copolymers, preferably used
in hydrogenated form, such as those described in the article "Melting behavior of poly(ε-
caprolactone)-block-polybutadiene copolymers" by S. Nojima, Macromolecules, 32, 3727-
3734(1999).
β) Block or multiblock hydrogenated poly(butylene terephthalate)-
b-poly(isoprene) block copolymers, mentioned in the article "Study of morphological and
mechanical properties of PP/PBT" by B. Boutevin et al., Polymer Bulletin, 34, 117-123
(1995).
γ) The poly(ethylene)-b-copoly(ethylene/propylene) block copolymers
mentioned in the articles "Morphology of semi-crystalline block copolymers of ethylene-
(ethylene-alt-propylene)" by P. Rangarajan et al., Macromolecules, 26, 4640-4645 (1993),
and "Polymer aggregates with crystalline cores: the system poly(ethylene)-poly(ethylene-
propylene)" P. Richter et al., Macromolecules, 30, 1053-1068 (1997).

δ) The poly(ethylene)-b-poly(ethylethylene) block copolymers mentioned in
the general article "Crystallization in, block copolymers" by I.W. Hamley, Advances in
Polymer Science, Vol. 148, 113-137 (1999).
The semi-crystalline polymers of the composition of the invention may be
non-crosslinked or partially crosslinked, provided that the degree of crosslinking does not
harm their dissolution or dispersion in the liquid fatty phase by heating above their melting
point. This may then be a chemical crosslinking, by reaction with a multifunctional
monomer during the polymerization. It may also be physical crosslinking which may then
be due either to the establishment of bonds of hydrogen type or dipolar type between
groups borne by the polymer, such as, for example, the dipolar interactions between
carboxylate ionomers, these interactions being of small amount and borne by the polymer
backbone; or to a phase separation between the crystallizable blocks and the amorphous
blocks borne by the polymer.
Preferably, the semi-crystalline polymers of the composition according to the
invention are non-crosslinked.
By way of specific example of a semi-crystalline polymer that can be used in
the composition according to the invention, mention may be made of the Intelimer®
products from the company Landec described in the brochure "Intelimer® polymers".
These polymers are in solid form at ambient temperature (25°C). They bear crystallizable
side chains and have the monomer of above formula X. Mention may in particular be
made of "Landec IP22", having a melting point Tm of 56°C, which is an impermeable,
non-sticky product that is viscous at ambient temperature.
The semi-crystalline polymers described in Examples 3, 4, 5, 7 and 9 of
document US-A-5, 156, 911, resulting from the copolymerization of acrylic acid and of a
C5 to C16 alkyl (meth)acrylate having a Tm ranging from 20°C to 35°C may also be used,
and more particularly those resulting from the copolymerization:
. of acrylic acid, of hexadecyl acrylate and of isodecyl acrylate in a 1/16/3
ratio,
. of acrylic acid and of pentadecyl acrylate in a 1/19 ratio,
. of acrylic acid, of hexadecyl acrylate and of ethyl acrylate in a 2.5/76.5/20
ratio,

.of acrylic acid, of hexadecyl acrylate and of methyl acrylate in a 5/85/10
ratio,
. of acrylic acid and of octadecyl methacrylate in a 2.5/97.5 ratio.
The polymer "Structure O" sold by the company National Starch, such as the
product described in document US-A-5,736,125, with a Tm of 44°C, and also semi-
crystalline polymers comprising crystallizable pendant chains comprising fluorinated
groups, as described in examples 1, 4, 6, 7 and 8 of document WO-A-01/19333, may also
be used.
The semi-crystalline polymers obtained by copolymerization of stearyl
acrylate and of acrylic acid or of NVP, as described in document US-A-5,519,063 or EP-
A-0550745, and more especially those described in the polymer Preparation Examples 1
and 2 below, with a melting point of 40°C and 38°C, respectively, may also be used.
The semi-crystalline polymers obtained by copolymerization of behenyl
acrylate and of acrylic acid or of NVP, as described in documents US-A-5,519,063 and
EP-A-0 550 745, and more especially those described in the polymer Preparation
Examples 3 and 4 below, with a melting point of 60°C and 58°C, respectively, may also
be used.
According to a specific embodiment of the invention, the semi-crystalline
polymers used do not comprise a carboxylic group.
The amount of semi-crystalline polymer in the composition of the invention
may range, for example, from 0.1% to 30% by weight of active material, preferably from
0.5% to 20% by weight of active material, and better still from 1% to 10% by weight of
active material, and preferably from 1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the
composition.
In particular, the semi-crystalline polymer and the gemini surfactant may be
present in a composition according to the invention in a semi-crystalline
polymer(s)/gemini surfactant(s) weight ratio ranging from 1 to 10, in particular ranging
from 1.5 to 9.

Fatty phase
As previously specified, the composition is an oil-in-water emulsion, the fatty
phase of which may range from 10% to 50% by weight, in particular from 15% to 45% by
weight, and preferably from 20% to 40% by weight, relative to the total weight of the
composition.
For the purpose of the invention, the fatty phase includes any liquid fatty
substances, generally oils, or solid fatty substances like waxes, or pasty compounds
present in said composition.
This fatty phase contains at least 40% by weight of non-volatile oil(s) as
described below.
The term "oil" is intended to mean any fatty substance in liquid form at
ambient temperature (25°C) and at atmospheric pressure.
The oil(s) may be present in a proportion of from 0.1% to 50% by weight, in
particular of at least 5% to 40% by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic
composition according to the invention.
The volatile or non-volatile oils may be hydrocarbon-based oils of animal or
plant origin, synthetic oils, silicone oils, fluoro oils, or mixtures thereof.
For the purpose of the present invention, the term "silicone oil" is intended to
mean an oil comprising at least one silicon atom, and in particular at least one Si-O group.
The term "hydrocarbon-based oil" is intended to mean an oil containing
principally hydrogen and carbon atoms and, optionally, oxygen, nitrogen, sulphur and/or
phosphorus atoms.
Non-volatile oils
For the purpose of the present invention, the term "non-volatile oil" is intended
to mean an oil having a vapour pressure of less than 0.13 Pa (0.01 mmHg).
The non-volatile oils may in particular be chosen from non-volatile
hydrocarbon-based, where appropriate fluorinated, oils and/or non-volatile silicone oils.
As non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oils that are suitable for use in the
invention, mention may be made especially of:
- hydrocarbon-based oils of animal origin,

- hydrocarbon-based oils of plant origin such as phytostearyl esters, such as
phytostearyl oleate, phytostearyl isostearate and lauroyl/octyldodecyl/phytostearyl
glutamate, for example sold under the name Eldew PS203 by Ajinomoto, triglycerides
consisting of fatty acid esters of glycerol, the fatty acids of which may have chain lengths
ranging from C4 to C24, these chains possibly being linear or branched, and saturated or
unsaturated; these oils are especially heptanoic or octanoic triglycerides, wheatgerm oil,
sunflower oil, grapeseed oil, sesame seed oil, corn oil, apricot oil, castor oil, shea oil,
avocado oil, olive oil, soybean oil, sweet almond oil, palm oil, rapeseed oil, cotton seed .
oil, hazelnut oil, macadamia oil, jojoba oil, alfalfa oil, poppy oil, pumpkin oil, marrow oil,
blackcurrant oil, evening primrose oil, millet oil, barley oil, quinoa oil, rye oil, safflower
oil, candlenut oil, passion flower oil or musk rose oil; shea butter; or alternatively
caprylic/capric acid triglycerides, for instance those sold by the company Stearineries
Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol 810®, 812® and 818® by the company
Dynamit Nobel,
- hydrocarbon-based oils of mineral or synthetic origin, for instance:
• synthetic ethers containing from 10 to 40 carbon atoms;
linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin such as
petroleum jelly, polydecenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as
Parleam, and squalane, and mixtures thereof, and in particular
hydrogenated polyisobutene,
• synthetic esters, for instance oils of formula R1COOR2 in which R1
represents a linear or branched fatty acid residue containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms and
R2 represents a hydrocarbon-based chain that is especially branched, containing from 1 to
40 carbon atoms provided that R1 + R2 ≥ 10.
The esters may be chosen especially from fatty acid esters, for example:
♦ cetostearyl octanoate, isopropyl alcohol esters, such as isopropyl
myristate or isopropyl palmitate, ethyl palmitate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, isopropyl stearate
or isostearate, isostearyl isostearate, octyl stearate, hydroxylated esters, for instance
isostearyl lactate, octyl hydroxystearate, diisopropyl adipate, heptanoates, and especially
isostearyl heptanoate, alcohol or polyalcohol octanoates, decanoates or ricinoleates, for
instance propylene glycol dioctanoate, cetyl octanoate, tridecyl octanoate, 2-ethylhexyl 4-
diheptanoate and palmitate, alkyl benzoate, polyethylene glycol diheptanoate, propylene

glycol 2-diethylhexanoate, and mixtures thereof, C12 to C15 alcohol benzoates, hexyl
laurate. ncopentanoic acid esters, for instance isodecyl ncopentanoate, isotridecyl
neopentanoate, isostearyl neopentanoate and octyldodccyl neopentanoate, isononanoic
acid esters, for instance isononyl isononanoate, isotridecyl isononanoate and octyl
isononanoate. and hydroxylated esters, for instance isostearyl lactate and diisostearyl
malate;
♦ polyol esters and pentaerythritol esters, for instance dipentaerythritol
tetrahydroxystearate/tetraisostearate;
♦ esters of diol dimers and diacid dimers such as Lusplan DD-DA5®
and Lusplan DD-DA7®, sold by the company Nippon Fine Chemical and described in
application FR 03 02809,

• fatty alcohols that are liquid at ambient temperature, with a branched
and/or unsaturated carbon-based chain containing from 12 to 26 carbon atoms, for instance
2-octyldodecanol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-butyloctanol and
2-undecylpentadecanol;
• higher fatty acids such as oleic acid, linoleic acid or linolenic acid, and
mixtures thereof, and
• dialkyl carbonates, the 2 alkyl chains possibly being identical or
different, such as dicaprylyl carbonate sold under the name Cetiol CC® by Cognis,
• non-volatile silicone oils, for instance non-volatile
polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMSs), polydimethylsiloxanes comprising alkyl or alkoxy
groups that are pendant and/or at the end of a silicone chain, these groups each containing
from 2 to 24 carbon atoms, phenyl silicones, for instance phenyl trimethicones, phenyl
dimethicones, phenyltrimethylsiloxydiphenylsiloxanes, diphenyl dimethicones,
diphenylmethyldiphenyltrisiloxanes and 2-phenylethyl trimethylsiloxysilicates, and
dimethicones or phenyl trimethicones with a viscosity of less than or equal to 100 cSt, and
mixtures thereof,
and mixtures thereof.
The non-volatile oils may also be chosen from liquid organic screens such as
those mentioned hereinafter among the list of organic UV screens.

The non-volatile oils may be present in a composition according to the
invention at a content ranging from 1% to 40% by weight, in particular from 3% to 20%
by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
Volatile oils
A composition in accordance with the invention may also comprise at least
one volatile oil.
For the purpose of the present invention, the term "volatile oil" is intended to
mean an oil (or nonaqueous medium) capable of evaporating on contact with the skin in
less than one hour, at ambient temperature and at atmospheric pressure. The volatile oil is
a volatile cosmetic oil, which is liquid at ambient temperature, especially having a non-
zero vapour pressure, at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure, in particular
having a vapour pressure ranging from 0.13 Pa to 40 000 Pa (10-3 to 300 mmHg), in
particular ranging from 1.3 Pa to 13 000 Pa (0.01 to 100mmHg) and more particularly
ranging from 1.3 Pa to 1300 Pa (0.01 to 10 mmHg).
The volatile hydrocarbon-based oils may be chosen from hydrocarbon-based
oils containing from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, and in particular branched C8-C16 alkanes (also
known as isoparaffins), such as isododecane (also known as 2,2,4,4,6-
pentamethylheptane), isodecane, isohexadecane and, for example, the oils sold under the
trade names Isopar® or Permethyl®.
Volatile oils that may also be used include volatile silicones, for instance
volatile linear or cyclic silicone oils, especially those having a viscosity ≤ 8 centistokes
(8 x 10-6 m2/s), and especially containing from 2 to 10 silicon atoms, and in particular from
2 to 7 silicone atoms, these silicones optionally comprising alkyl or alkoxy groups
containing from 1 to 10 carbon atoms. As a volatile silicone oil that can be used in the
invention, mention may in particular be made of dimethicones with a viscosity of 5 and 6
cSt, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclo-
hexasiloxane, heptamethylhexyltrisiloxane, heptamethyloctyltrisiloxane, hexamethyl-
disiloxane, octamethyltrisiloxane, decamethyltetrasiloxane and dodecamethylpenta-
siloxane, and mixtures thereof.
Volatile fluoro oils such as nonafluoromethoxybutane or perfluoromethyl-
cyclopentane, and mixtures thereof, may also be used.

It is also possible to use a mixture of the oils mentioned above.
According to a variant embodiment, the compositions according to the
invention contain at least 5% by weight, or even at least 10% by weight, of non-silicone
oil(s).
The other fatty substances that may be present in the oily phase are, for
example, fatty acids containing from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, such as stearic acid, lauric acid
or palmitic acid; fatty alcohols containing from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, such as stearyl
alcohol, cetyl alcohol and mixtures thereof (cetearyl alcohol).
The liquid fatty phase may also contain, in addition to the oils, other
compounds solubilized in the oils, such as gelling and/or structuring agents.
These compounds may in particular be chosen from gums such as silicone
gums (dimethiconol); silicone resins such as trifluoromethyl(C1-C4)alkyl dimethicone and
trifluoropropyl dimethicone, and silicone elastomers such as the products sold under the
name "KSG" by the company Shin-Etsu, under the name "Trefil" by the company Dow
Corning or under the name "Gransil" by the company Grant Industries; and mixtures
thereof.
Solid fatty substances
The composition according to the invention may also comprise at least one
solid fatty substance chosen from waxes, pasty fatty substances and mixtures thereof.
The wax is solid at ambient temperature (25°C), with a reversible solid/liquid
change of state, having a melting point of greater than 30°C, which may be up to 200°C,
and a hardness of greater than 0.5 MPa and having, in the solid state, an anisotropic crystal
organization.
It may be a hydrocarbon-based wax, a fluoro wax and/or a silicone wax and
may be of animal, plant, mineral or synthetic origin.
It may be chosen, for example, from beeswax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax,
paraffin waxes, hydrogenated castor oil, synthetic waxes, for instance polyethylene waxes
(preferably with a molecular weight of between 400 and 600) or Fischer-Tropsch waxes,
silicone waxes, for instance alkyl or alkoxy dimethicones containing from 16 to 45 carbon
atoms, ceresins or ozokerites, for example isoparaffins with a melting point of less than
40°C, such as EMW-0003, sold by the company Nippon Seirou, α-olefin oligomers, such
as the polymers Performa V® 825, 103 and 260, sold by the company New Phase

Technologies; ethylene-propylene copolymers, such as Performalene® EP 700, and
microcrystalline waxes with a melting point greater than 85°C, such as HI-MIC® 1070,
1080, 1090 and 3080, sold by Nippon Seirou, and mixtures thereof.
According to a specific embodiment, the wax(es) used in the cosmetic
compositions in accordance with the present invention may be present at a content ranging
from approximately 1% or approximately 20%, in particular from approximately 2% to
approximately 10%, relative to the total weight of the composition.
A cosmetic composition in accordance with the present invention may also
comprise at least one pasty compound.
For the purpose of the present invention, the term "pasty" is intended to mean
a fatty compound with a reversible solid/liquid change of state, and comprising, at a
temperature of 23°C, a liquid fraction and a solid fraction. The term "pasty" also refers to
polyvinyl laurate.
For the purposes of the invention, a pasty compound may advantageously have
a hardness at 20°C ranging from 0.001 to 0.5 MPa, and preferably from 0.002 to 0.4 MPa.
Among the pasty compounds that may be used in the composition according to
the invention, mention may be made of petroleum jelly, shea butter, cocoa butter, shorea
butter, lanolins and lanolin derivatives such as acetylated lanolins, oxypropylenated
lanolins or isopropyl lanolate, and mixtures thereof. Esters of fatty acids or of fatty
alcohols may also be used, in particular those containing 20 to 65 carbon atoms, such as
triisostearyl citrate or cetyl citrate; arachidyl propionate; polyvinyl laurate; cholesterol
esters, for instance triglycerides of plant origin such as hydrogenated plant oils, viscous
polyesters and mixtures thereof. Triglycerides of plant origin that may be used include
hydrogenated castor oil derivatives, such as Thixinr®" from Rheox.
Mention may also be made of polyesters resulting from the esterification of a
carboxylic acid and of an aliphatic hydroxycarboxylic ester. For example, Risocast® DA-L
(ester derived from the esterification reaction of hydrogenated castor oil with dilinoleic
acid in proportions of 2 to 1) and Risocast® DA-H (ester resulting from the esterification
of hydrogenated castor oil with isostearic acid in proportions of 4 to 3) sold by the
Japanese company Kokyu Alcohol Kogyo.
Mention may also be made of pasty silicone compounds such as high-
molecular-weight polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMSs), and in particular those containing
pendant chains of the alkyl or alkoxy type containing from 8 to 24 carbon atoms, and

having a melting point of 20-55°C, for instance stearyl dimethicones, especially those sold
by the company Dow Corning under, the trade names DC2503® and DC25514®, and
mixtures thereof.
The composition may also comprise a cosmetic additive in particular chosen
from fillers, surfactants, cosmetic or dermatological active agents, UV screens, film-
forming polymers, gelling agents, preservatives, fragrances, pigments, active agents such
as vitamins, and plant extracts.
As specified above, the compositions according to the invention are
particularly advantageous for formulating organic screens.
Organic UV screens (or sunscreens)
Thus, according to a variant embodiment, the compositions according to the
invention contain one or more organic screens.
More specifically, the composition of the invention may contain at least one
organic UV screen chosen from hydrophilic organic screens, lipophilic organic screens
and mixtures thereof. According to a specific embodiment of the invention, one or more
physical screens may be combined therewith.
As examples of organic screens which are active in the UV-A and/or UV-B
range, and which may be used in the composition of the invention, mention may, for
example, be made of the following, denoted below by their CTFA name:
Derivatives of para-aminobenzoic acid (PABA):
- PABA,
- Ethyl PABA,
- Ethyl Dihydroxypropyl PABA,
- Ethylhexyl Dimethyl PABA sold in particular under the name "Escalol 507" by ISP,
- Glyceryl PABA (liquid),
- PEG-25 PABA sold under the name "Uvinul P25" by BASF,
Salicylic derivatives:
- Homosalate sold under the name "Eusolex HMS" by Rona/EM Industries (liquid),
- Ethylhexyl Salicylate (or ethyl hexyl salicylate) sold under then name "Neo Heliopan
OS" by Haarmann and Reimer (liquid),

- Dipropylene glycol Salicylate sold under the name "Dipsal" by Scher,
- TEA Salicylate, sold under, the name "Neo Heliopan TS" by Haarmann and Reimer
(liquid),
Dibenzoylmethane derivatives:
- Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane sold in particular under the trade name "Parsol 1789"
by Hoffmann La Roche (liquid),
- Isopropyl Dibenzoylmethane,
Cinnamic derivatives:
- Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate (or Octyl Methoxycinnamate) sold in particular under
the trade name "Parsol MCX" by Hoffmann La Roche,
- Isopropyl Methoxycinnamate,
- Isoamyl Methoxycinnamate sold under the trade name "Neo Heliopan E 1000" by
Haarmann and Reimer (liquid),
- Cinoxate,
- DEA Methoxycinnamate (liquid),
- Diisopropyl Methylcinnamate (liquid),
- Glyceryl Ethylhexanoate Dimethoxycinnamate,
β,β-Diphenylacrylate derivatives:
- Octocrylene (2-ethylhexyl α-cyano-β,β-diphenylacrylate) sold in particular under the
trade name "Uvinul N539" by BASF (liquid),
- Etocrylene, sold in particular under the trade name "Uvinul N35" by BASF,
Benzophenone derivatives:
- Benzophenone-1 sold under the trade name "Uvinul 400" by BASF,
- Benzophenone-2 sold under the trade name "Uvinul D50" by BASF,
- Benzophenone-3 or Oxybenzone, sold under the trade name "Uvinul M40" by BASF,
- Benzophenone-4 sold under the trade name "Uvinul MS40" by BASF,
- Benzophenone-5,
- Benzophenone-6 sold under the trade name "Helisorb 11" by Norquay,
- Benzophenone-8 sold under the trade name "Spectra-Sorb UV-24" by American
Cyanamid,

- Benzophenone-9 sold under the trade name "Uvinul DS-49" by BASF.
- Benzophenone-12,
Benzylidenecamphor derivatives:
- 3-Benzylidene camphor manufactured under the name "Mexoryl SD" by Chimex,
- 4-Methylbenzylidene camphor sold under the trade name "Fusolex 6300" by Merck,
- Benzylidene Camphor Sulfonic Acid manufactured under the name "Mexoryl SF" by
Chimex,
- Camphor Benzalkonium Methosulfate manufactured under the name "Mexoryl SO" by
Chimex,
- Terephthalylidene Dicamphor Sulfonic Acid manufactured under the name "Mexoryl
SX" by Chimex,
- Polyacrylamidomethyl Benzylidene Camphor manufactured under the name "Mexoryl
SW" by Chimex,
Phenylbenzimidazole derivatives:
- Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid sold in particular under the trade name "Eusolex
232" by Merck,
- Benzimidazilate sold under the trade name "Neo Ilcliopan AP" by Haarmann and
Reimer,
Triazine derivatives:
- Anisotriazine sold under the trade name "Tinosorb S" by Ciba Geigy,
- Ethylhexyl triazone sold under the trade name "Uvinul T150" by BASF,
- Diethylhexyl Butamido Triazone sold under the trade name "Uvasorb HEB" by Sigma
3V,
Phenylbenzotriazole derivatives:
- Drometrizole Trisiloxane sold under the trade name "Silatrizole" by Rhodia Chimie,
Anthranilic derivatives:
-Menthyl anthranilate sold under the trade name "Neo Heliopan MA" by Haarmann and
Reimer (liquid),

Imidazoline derivatives:
- Ethylhexyl Dimethoxybenzylidene Dioxoimidazoline Propionate,
Benzalmalonate derivatives:
- Polyorganosiloxane comprising benzalmalonate functions, sold under the trade name
"Parsol SLX" by Hoffmann La Roche,
- and mixtures thereof.
The organic UV screens which are more particularly preferred are chosen from
the following compounds:
- Ethylhexyl salicylate,
- Ethylhexyl triazone,
- Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane,
- Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate,
- Octocrylene,
- Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid,
- Terephthalylidene Dicamphor Sulfonic Acid,
- Benzophenone-3,
- Benzophenone-4,
- Benzophenone-5,
- 4-Methylbenzylidene camphor,
- Benzimidazilate,
- Anisotriazine,
- Ethylhexyl triazone,
- Diethylhexyl Butamido Triazone,
- Methylene bis-Benzotriazolyl Tetramethylbutylphenol,
- Drometrizole Trisiloxane,
- and mixtures thereof.
The organic screen(s) may be present in an amount ranging from 0.1% to 25%
by weight, preferably from 1% to 20% by weight, and better still 5% to 15% by weight,
relative to the total weight of the composition.
As physical screens that may also be present in the compositions of the
invention, mentioned may, for example, be made of pigments and nanopigments of metal

oxides, which may be coated or uncoated, in particular titanium oxide, iron oxide,
zirconium oxide, zinc oxide or cerium, oxide, and mixtures thereof, it being possible for
these oxides to be in the form of microparticles or nanoparticles (nanopigments), which
are optionally coated.
Of course, those skilled in the art will take care to select this or these possible
additional compounds, and/or the amount thereof, in such a way that the advantageous
properties of the compounds according to the invention are not, or are not substantially,
impaired by the addition envisaged.
The compounds may be more or less fluid and may have the appearance of a
white or coloured cream, an ointment, a milk, a lotion, a mist, a serum, a paste or a
mousse.
According to a variant embodiment, they may be in the form of a makeup
product such as, for example, a foundation.
They may also advantageously be in the form of suntan products.
The examples which appear hereinafter are given by way of nonlimiting
illustration of the field of the invention.
- The gemini surfactant used in the examples hereinafter is a mixture of
Behenyl Alcohol, Glyceryl Stearate, Glyceryl Stearate Citrate and Sodium
Dicocoylethylenediamine PEG-15 Sulfate sold by the company Sasoc under the name
Ceralution ®H.
- The semi-crystalline polymer used is a poly(stearyl acrylate) sold by the
company Landec under the name Intelimer IPA 13-1.

Example 1
A cosmetic composition in accordance with the invention and the detailed
formulation of which is provided hereinafter in Table I, is prepared and its properties in
terms of stability and sensory quality are tested.
Its stability over time is assessed at the end of a period of storage in which said
composition is left to stand for 2 months at a temperature of respectively 37°C then 45°C.
By way of comparison, two other formulations were prepared, in which the gemini
surfactant is replaced with either a 12/46/42 mixture of cetylstearylglucoside and of cetyl
and stearyl alcohols sold by SEPPIC under the name Montanov® (control 1), or
polyglyceryl-3 methylglucose distearate sold by Goldschmidt under the name Tegocare
450® (control 2).
The corresponding formulations are also given in Table I below.



In terms of stability, only the emulsion in accordance with the present
invention is satisfactory. Examination under a microscope makes it possible to observe a
fine and regular emulsion, unlike the control formulations, the emulsions of which are
coarser and more irregular. These same results are confirmed by macroscopic evaluation.
The control formulations exhibit, after two months of storage, whether at 37°C or at 45°C,
a heterogeneous texture with masses visible to the naked eye. Only the formulation
according to the invention remains smooth and fine.
The combination according to the invention manifestly ensures a better
dispersion of the silica fillers and effectively prevents agglomeration thereof.


Procedure
After homogenization of the various phases, the oily phase is dispersed in the
aqueous phase with stirring at 75 °C. A firm cream, which is fondant on application and

provides intense nutrition and moisturization without an unpleasant greasy film is
obtained. The composition is also stable after storage for 2 months at 25°C and 37°C.
Example 3
Table 2 gives the composition of a formulation in accordance with the
invention. This table also reports a control formula in which the poly(stearyl acrylate) is
replaced with beeswax.



Each composition was conserved for 2 months at temperatures of 25°C, 27°C
and 45°C.
Examination with the naked eye shows that the composition according to the
invention is homogeneous and smooth, whereas the control composition exhibits masses
and is therefore heterogeneous, thereby demonstrating that the presence of poly(stearyl
acrylate) makes it possible to obtain a stable composition.
Examination under a microscope after 2 months of storage at 45°C shows that
the composition according to the invention is fine, whereas the control composition
exhibits zones where the oil droplets have collapsed and therefore a heterogeneity.
Moreover, the composition applied to the skin does not give a greasy feeling,
or a shiny effect.

WE CLAIM :
1. Cosmetic or dermatological composition of oil-in-water type comprising,
in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least one gemini surfactant of formula (I):

in which:
- R1 and R3 denote, independently of one another, an alkyl radical containing from 1 to 25
carbon atoms;
- R2 denotes a spacer consisting of a linear or branched alkylene chain containing from 1
to 12 carbon atoms;
- X and Y denote, independently of one another, a -(C2H4O)a-(C3H6O)bZ group where
• Z denotes a hydrogen atom or a radical -CH2-COOM, -SO3M, -P(O)(OM)2,
-C2H4-SO3M, -C3H6-SO3M or -CH2(CHOH)4CH2OH, where M, M' represent H or an
alkali metal ion, an alkaline earth metal ion, an ammonium ion or alkanolammonium
ion,
• a ranges from 0 to 15,
• b ranges from 0 to 10, and
• the sum of a + b ranges from 1 to 25; and
n ranges from 1 to 10,
in combination with an effective amount of at least one semi-crystalline polymer which is
solid at ambient temperature and which has a melting point of below 70°C, comprising a)
a polymeric backbone and b) at least one crystallizable organic side chain and/or one
crystallizable organic block which is part of the backbone of said polymer, said polymer
having a number-average molecular mass greater than or equal to 2000,
said emulsion having a proportion of fatty phase greater than 10% by weight relative to the
total weight of said composition and comprising more than 40% by weight of non-volatile
oil(s) relative to the total weight of the fatty phase.

2. Composition according to claim 1, wherein each of the groups R1-CO- and
R3-CO- denotes a coconut fatty acid residue.
3. Composition according to claim 1, wherein , for the gemini surfactant of
formula (I), for each of the radicals X and Y, the sum of a and b has a mean value ranging
from 10 to 20.
4. Composition according to claim 1, wherein, for the gemini surfactant of
formula (I), Y is the group -SO3M where M is an alkali metal ion such as a sodium ion.
5. Composition according to claim 1, wherein, for the gemini surfactant of
formula (I), n is equal to 1.
6. Composition according to claim 1, wherein the surfactant of formula (I)
has the following structure:

7. Composition according to claim 1, wherein the gemini surfactant is mixed
with (a) a glyceryl ester of a C6-C22 fatty acid, (b) a glycerol diester of a C6-C22 fatty acid
and of citric acid, and (c) a C10-C30 fatty alcohol.
8. Composition according to claim 1, wherein the gemini surfactant is
present at a content ranging from 0.01% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of
the composition.
9. Composition according to claim 1, wherein the gemini surfactant is
present at a content ranging from 0.2% to 1.5% by weight relative to the total weight of
the composition.

10. Composition according to claim 1, wherein the polymer has a number-
average molecular mass ranging from 3000 to 500 000.
11. Composition according to claim 1, wherein the polymer is soluble in the
fatty phase to at least 1% by weight at a temperature above its melting point.
12. Composition according to claim 1, wherein the polymer has a melting
point Tm such that 30°C ≤ Tm 13. Composition according to claim 1, wherein the polymer is chosen from:
- block copolymers of polyolefins of control crystallization,
- aliphatic or aromatic polyester polycondensates and aliphatic/aromatic
copolyesters,
- homopolymers or copolymers bearing at least one crystallizable side chain,
and homopolymers or copolymers bearing in the backbone at least one
crystallizable block,
- homopolymers or copolymers bearing at least one crystallizable side chain
comprising fluoro group(s),
- and mixtures thereof.
14. Composition according to claim 1, wherein the polymer is chosen from
homopolymers and copolymers comprising from 50% to 100% by weight of units
resulting from the polymerization of one or more monomers bearing crystallizable
hydrophobic side chain(s).
15. Composition according to claim 1, wherein the polymer is chosen from
homopolymers and copolymers resulting from the polymerization of at least one monomer
comprising a crystallizable chain, chosen from saturated C14-C24 alkyl (meth)acrylates,
C11-C15 perfluoroalkyl (meth)acrylates, C14 to C24 N-alkyl(meth)acrylamides with or
without a fluorine atom, vinyl esters comprising C14 to C24 alkyl or perfluoroalkyl chains,
vinyl ethers comprising C14 to C24 alkyl or perfluoroalkyl chains, C14 to C24 alpha-olefins,

para-alkylstyrenes with an alkyl group containing from 12 to 24 carbon atoms, and
mixtures thereof.
16. Composition according to claim 1, wherein the polymer is chosen from
copolymers of alkyl (meth)acrylate or of alkyl(meth)acrylamide with a C14 to C24 alkyl
group, with N-vinylpyrrolidone, hydroxyethyl (meth)acrylate; or mixtures thereof.
17. Composition according to claim 1, containing at least one organic screen.
18. Cosmetic method for making up and/or for the non therapeutic care of
keratin materials, wherein it comprises at least a step of applying to keratin materials a
composition according to claim 1.


ABSTRACT
COSMETIC OIL-IN-WATER EMULSION
The present invention relates to the field of cosmetic or dermatological
compositions of oil-in-water emulsion type, comprising, in a physiologically acceptable
medium, at least gemini surfactant of formula (I):

in which R1 and R3 denote, independently of one another, an alkyl radical containing from
1 to 25 carbon atoms; R2 denotes a spacer consisting of a linear or branched alkylene chain
containing from 1 to 12 carbon atoms, X and Y denote, independently of one another, a
group -(C2H4O)a-(C3H6O)bZ; n ranges from 1 to 10,
in combination with an effective amount of at least one semi-crystalline polymer which is
solid at ambient temperature and which has a melting point below 70°C, said polymer
having a number-average molecular mass greater than or equal to 2000, said emulsion
having a proportion of fatty phase of greater than 10% by weight relative to the total
weight of the composition and comprising more than 40% by weight of non-volatile oil(s)
relative to the weight of the fatty phase.

Documents:

1614-KOL-2008-(22-12-2011)-CORRESPONDENCE.pdf

1614-KOL-2008-ABSTRACT 1.1.pdf

1614-kol-2008-abstract.pdf

1614-KOL-2008-AMANDED CLAIMS.pdf

1614-kol-2008-claims.pdf

1614-KOL-2008-CORRESPONDENCE 1.1.pdf

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1614-KOL-2008-CORRESPONDENCE 1.4.pdf

1614-KOL-2008-CORRESPONDENCE-1.2.pdf

1614-kol-2008-correspondence.pdf

1614-KOL-2008-DESCRIPTION (COMPLETE) 1.1.pdf

1614-kol-2008-description (complete).pdf

1614-KOL-2008-EXAMINATION REPORT REPLY RECIEVED.pdf

1614-KOL-2008-EXAMINATION REPORT.pdf

1614-KOL-2008-FORM 1-1.1.pdf

1614-kol-2008-form 1.pdf

1614-KOL-2008-FORM 18 1.1.pdf

1614-kol-2008-form 18.pdf

1614-KOL-2008-FORM 2-1.1.pdf

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1614-KOL-2008-FORM 3 1.2.pdf

1614-KOL-2008-FORM 3-1.1.pdf

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1614-KOL-2008-FORM 5 1.1.pdf

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1614-KOL-2008-GPA 1.1.pdf

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1614-KOL-2008-GRANTED-ABSTRACT.pdf

1614-KOL-2008-GRANTED-CLAIMS.pdf

1614-KOL-2008-GRANTED-DESCRIPTION (COMPLETE).pdf

1614-KOL-2008-GRANTED-FORM 1.pdf

1614-KOL-2008-GRANTED-FORM 2.pdf

1614-KOL-2008-GRANTED-SPECIFICATION.pdf

1614-KOL-2008-OTHERS 1.1.pdf

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1614-KOL-2008-PRIORITY DOCUMENT 1.1.pdf

1614-KOL-2008-PRIORITY DOCUMENT.pdf

1614-KOL-2008-REPLY TO EXAMINATION REPORT.pdf

1614-kol-2008-specification.pdf

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Patent Number 252862
Indian Patent Application Number 1614/KOL/2008
PG Journal Number 23/2012
Publication Date 08-Jun-2012
Grant Date 05-Jun-2012
Date of Filing 19-Sep-2008
Name of Patentee L'OREAL
Applicant Address 14 RUE ROYALE, 75008 PARIS, FRANCE
Inventors:
# Inventor's Name Inventor's Address
1 LORANT, RALUCA 5 VILLA SISLEY, 94320 THIAIS, FRENCE
PCT International Classification Number A61K47/30; A61P17/02; A61K47/30
PCT International Application Number N/A
PCT International Filing date
PCT Conventions:
# PCT Application Number Date of Convention Priority Country
1 07 57800 2007-09-24 France